Langtang Trek - D5

Langtang Trek

DAY 5 - below Lama Hotel (2460m) - Syabrubesi (November 15th, 2011)
up: 370m  | down: 1300m  | duration 8h

Marihuana for my mates
Incense for the gods and
Berries for the tourist
Friends are needed where the state is corrupt
Having the gods and tourists in a good mood
has never been a disadvantage


Smells of incense and freshly baked ciabatti climb my nose. I have an early morning today. In one hour the eating hall will be filled up with tourists and I will enjoy a milk coffee, chocolate pudding and ciabatti with jam for breakfast. The insence is brought to the outside. Some of the tourists will hug each other while saying good bye. A single evening made them friends. Here seems to be a place of peace and power, at least in the hikers projection.

Today it will be only a half day hiking out the rest of the valley, no need to rush. I study the clothing of the female “tibetian” habitats. Colors are only used in a tiny, however very tasteful dose. The dominant color is a dark black. Two layer of skirts are worn, a blue patterned one above a black. Also the upper body is covered with several layers of tissue, a violet vest is covered by a dark one. The tall appearance is emphasized by a narrow edgy face. Thick, black and long hair is falling from the head, tied together in beautiful long pigtail. The proudly shown silver handy craft witnesses of wealth.

Our return track leads us through a narrowly cut valley. The walls may be 400 meters of height and 80 degree inclined. It is strictly impossible to build a road here. We pass bye some bee hives of wild bees. Scarily installed ladders provide an idea of the enormously adventures honey harvest that the locals do here regularly. My guide passes me some fruits once in the while. I do not know them, they taste good. For himself he picks some green leafs. As I look on him he responds: “My friends like smoking this. Well of course it is illegal and I might get in trouble when caught, however taking care of friendships is one of the most important things in such a corrupt state.”

My guide orders the same lunch as I do. Onion Soup and mixed potatoes. He has copied my order several times in the last days, obviously he wanted to try what my taste is like. Obviously he does not like the food I do, this is not the first time he only eats up half the portion. I speak to him about this and ask him about his favorite food. Only little knowledge of Nepals culture is needed to guess right: Dhal Bat!

It is early afternoon as we arrive in the settlements of Shyraphaya. The small farms keep many people busy, also it is a trading and travel hub to this region. The school building is filled up with lively and friendly children, playing volleyball and other games. Small kids lough and talk to me, I do not understand them. It is fun, we are kidding and we start a race running down the street. Beautiful and deeply honest fun.

The Chinese workers push hard to finish the road that will connect this place to Tibet in the north. An “Eicher” truck drives down the road. The famous expression of Che Guevara sticks on the front window. The Latin American revolutionist made his way to Asia. How much may they know about him here? A Budda Travels Bus is waiting to depart at the street side. Hopelessly overcrowded, filled up inside and on the roof top.

The place that accommodates me for tonight has a cold hot shower. It employs a little girl, twelve years of age. She works for 2000 Rs (20EUR) 30 days every month. Her destiny is a drinking father, an all time sick mother and a housemother alike a dragon. She smiles a lot though.

I meet David during a hot ginger lemon tea and a beer in the afternoon. He wears flags of countries he has visited on his vest. It are many, however there also is half the space left. The Franco Canadian tells me he is only traveling since three years now, by far he is not finished yet.